I wanted a starwheel tailstock for a long time – and finally got one on a company liquidation. It was not in a good shape, but I like a lot to refurbish this kind of tools.
The toolchanger is mounted on a W20-collet and had some problems: it was sloppy and had some broken parts (which I don’t know how they are named officially).
It’s the part where the tool/toolholder is clamped. The clamping force is obtained by thightening the screw on the top of the part. Two of those screws had ruined threads, one was broken off completely! I think this happened to somebody, who didn’t know about the function of this clamp – but I have to admit, that I’ve also never seen this kind of clamping by pushing a rod upwards…
After disassembling and cleaning the whole tool, the same old steps again: sanding off the old paint, priming, filling, sanding and painting again. This time without the indulgence of a sandblaster (really a lot of handwork).
I like to work in a «styled workshop» – funny, isn’t it? 🙂
For the new Batko belt grinder a small and mobile surface would ideal. You can place it where you need it, and where the dust won’t bother. Some of my older workbenches are from the IKEA-kitchen-line «Bekväm». They sturdy, stable (some mods required) and as you’ll see: highly customizable. With a touch of paint (bottom in a dark gray and the table varnished with parquet lacquer) a pair of new wheels it will get a irreplacable tool in the workshop.
The frequency drive and the control panel were placetdin the bottom part, right below the plate. Luckily, the VFD has just the right width. The panel was cut with the Tormach PCNC440 and inset on the front part. To be honest: the wiring was a little PITA. The manual isn’t a quality product (e.g. resistance not readable) – as in most of these products. Well, but when you get it to work, you really enjoy it even more…
Tilting the machine needs an extra: the motor needs it’s place! So you need to lift the whole machine for about 80 mm. I fixed this with a wooden block and some supports turned on the Schaublin 102VM. The support on the handle needed to be extended – the drilled holes on the base plate (normaly used to fix the machine) were used, to place the standoffs. Aiming not to scratch the plate and stop up vibrations: some cork feets (as attempt).
The chipguard on the lathe was never installed. Not because it wouldn’t be great to use – simply because you couldn’t see through 🙂 The mounting is fast and easy and can be set to the appropriate height or lenght (and tilt too). So it would be great to use this again…
I looked at different solutions and even thought about bending one. But this would really top my skills. Searching on the net, I finally found one which fits the present mounting.
Simple but convenient – tool organisation for the tripan toolholders! This is what it looks like at the end of the day…
The layout is set «by eye». After some weeks using it, I would change this and give some more space for «overlength» tools. Luckily some pins were used to fix the bent parts! This gets handy if you rework the layout – just change the pins.
Some parts of the Schaublin were overhauled in a way, that doesn’t accomodate my style of work. The parts were overpainted without being taken apart – most of them «freehand» without masking or something alike. Moreover, the wrong paint was used: it began to blob and to sliver apart…
The apron was tricky to disassemble. Probably, this was the first time for years, that someone did that. Perhaps it was even a premiere, that every detailed part was disassembled and cleaned – some parts revealed the original paint, others the «history» behind it.
Cleaning and inspecting
As you will see next, the inside of the machine wasn’t cleaned for years probably. But this mix of oil, grease, chips and dirt comes loose quite easy – yes, it’s a mess though. I’ll address the grease and oil chapter lather.
Underneath the mud, a beauty appeared! The craftsmanship of Schaublin is really a joy to have a look at – nothing compared to todays «chineasium machines» (to have AvE mentioned).
I’ll show some parts just to show the high quality and how they are made. After more than 60 years, I’ve found just one piece that really is broken! The remaining parts have wear of course – but nothing to be really concerned about.
Oil not grease: the nipples
On the same time, Bob Miller is also digging in his Schaublin. Besides also being one of them… well… in his words:
bob_mllr What appear to be grease nipples are not always for grease 😢. Someone thought so though when they lubed the Schaublin 102vm apron.
I used a kind of really fine grease for that – and probably didn’t perish too much. But after degreasing everything and cleaning it really deeply through all oil tubes and oil paths – it’s the right time to switch to an appropriate oil ! Being invited at Schaublin in Bévilard in a few weeks, I’ll get the right one from them.
Preparing for sandblasting
All the parts were cleaned and prepared for sandblasting. This is the first time that I give something to be sandblasted, and right: I’m a little nervous about this. I hope this will be done cautious – I prefer doing some handwork compared to damages that are hard to fix! Here’s what it looks like:
Back from sandblasting
The blaster-master did a really good job: the parts turned out fine. No major parts were damaged! Some dents though, but not on important areas.
The parts turned out nice and clean, no major parts damaged (some small dents though but not on important areas).
The part I was concerned about was a oil-window peering out of the main case. This one wouldn’t be easy to change – I saw somebody breaking it out and turning a thread into the case, but this was something I’d liked to avoid.
Priming, filling, sanding and painting
The first steps are tedious, but you’ll be honoured with the results. All coatings are 2K-compounds (primer, putty and the paint). It takes some coats to have a nice, even surface and yes, it’s a mess 😉
The used putty is a two-component-filler with a very short can life. This forces a fast application but has the positive effect, that you can sand the item after a short waiting time.
What I’d love to know before
I don’t own the original manual of the machine. There are more than a dozen of manuals on the net: varying languages, different years and diverging types – but all of them in a poor quality. Very difficult to see if a handle is set as a screw or only plugged or plugged and pinned. After studying the manual and inspecting the part from all sides (more than once), you could use a pair of pliers or even the soft-head hammer.
Yes – they were doing a really gread job, manufacturing this machine. I never saw such thight seats! And if the machine’s old and «crusty», it takes some gentle force to convince a part to move…
Don’t remember where I have found this one, but I liked the idea:
The blade needs to be «bent» in place mainly on two points (on the top right, and the opposite left). The concept of displacing the bearings in accordant way could preserve them a little bit. And given that this is a short task on the lathe…
The idea of easing up the setup of the blade alignment is really delightful. I saw this or similar mods on different places – the one I took a in depth look onto was on the ToolsandMods website.
Mine consist of two setscrews on each side of the blade guides – this way it’s possible not only to tilt the blade, but also to displace sideways the whole block. This way it’s really easy and accurate to set the blade in two angles: in the cutting direction and also in the cutting angle of the piece beeing cut.
The parts were milled about 5.5 mm down on the sides – making space for some M5-threads and offering contact points for the setscrews. Setting this part back, some clearance for the height limiting wheel is needed. I took about 3 mm – you can see this recess in the middle of the part.
I used some vee blocks to clamp the angled parts down. Don’t worry: those angles are far away from 45°, but this doesn’t matter to the later purpose. The other parts were clamped on the precision tool vice using a ball and some brass shim stock (similar setup as you probably would use to square up stock).
Beneath the usual mess with cast iron, it turned out well. This mod is really a great simplification of the setup process. It speeds it up and makes it really more precise. I really recommend this one!
First step: checking out, if the wheel fits the lathe 😛 This bandsaw did a great job for about two years now, and if the wheels couldn’t be trued up on the lathe, I would have kept the things as they were. As you see on the image, it worked!
Measuring the upper and lower wheels resulted in a light offset of the whole surface. Not that much, but as the wheel was on the lathe, this was a short thing to fix.